Growing Cabbage in Your Garden !

How to Grow Cabbage !   How to Grow Cabbage Cabbages are extremely hardy members of the brassica family, which thrive in cold damp winters and are capable of withstanding temperatures which would destroy many other crops. The somewhat unglamorous reputation gained by cabbage has changed over the last few years, newer varieties have been introduced which are milder tasting than the old much stronger flavored types.  These varieties have also been bred to be more disease resistant. Because the cabbage is suitable to most temperate climates and soils and require minimal attention, they are one of the easiest crops to grow. Growing Cabbage---Soil and site for Cabbage. The ideal site for cabbages is any well drained ground, but they prefer a medium to light soil which will retain a reasonable amount of water. Prepare the ground with mulch, several months before sowing. If the ground has not been mulched, apply a general fertilizer before sowing. I am in favor of sowing from mid spring until early summer for a longer period of harvesting .  Cabbages grown outdoors should be transplanted when four or five cabbage type leaves have appeared.  Care of Cabbage  Cabbages sown in spring do not require a great deal of care, but do not allow them to dry out as this will impair their growth. Water liberally during hot and dry weather. Hoe around the plants during the growing period to control the weeds and aerate the soil which will also deter insect pests from laying their eggs. A layer of garden compost around (but not touching) the plants will conserve water, prevent weeds and  deter those pesky insects!   Cabbages are greedy feeders and require plenty of fertilizer during the growing period. Spraying with Miracle Grow every 2 weeks will    greatly enhance their growth. As the plants mature, some of the leaves may turn yellow. Break off these discoloured leaves as soon as they appear. . Harvesting and Storing Cabbage Cabbages are ready for harvesting when the hearts are firm. Lift the entire plant with a fork and cut the roots off at a later stage, or, cut the stem just above the base of the lower leaves, and discard the outer leaves which are too coarse for eating. Mature cabbages with a good firm heart, and in good condition, can be stored in a cool, airy frost proof shed for several weeks. Place the cabbages on a rack made of wood or chicken wire, do not stack them on the ground. Once the cabbages have been cut and stored, the crop has now finished and the ground can be cleared. Pests and Diseases of Cabbage cabbage root fly   Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are black and rotten. Club root The first signs of infection are wilting. blueish leaves and a dying plant. Cabbage Caterpillars Holes in  the leaves Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook             Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix         Back to the Home Page 4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html

How to Grow Cauliflower

How to Grow Cauliflower   How to Grow Cauliflower Technically, there are two sorts of cauliflowers, summer and winter. The former is a proper cauliflower ,while the latter variety is a type of broccoli. The names 'summer' and 'winter' are a bit misleading. Some summer cauliflowers are sown in winter under glass, for harvesting in late spring or early summer. Maincrop varieties of summer cauliflower are sown outdoors in spring for harvesting in summer and autumn. Soil and Site for Cauliflower All cauliflowers need a neutral or slightly alkaline soil to do well. If the soil is too acidic, the plants will be unable to obtain all the trace elements they need, and may develop whiptail. On the other hand, soils which are too limey or chalky can lead to stunted and discoloured cauliflower. As with all brassicas, avoid using a plot on which a brassica crop was grown within the past two years. Cauliflowers will definitely suffer if they are grown on the same plot for two or more years in a row. Winter Cauliflower Winter cauliflowers are much more tolerant of soil conditions, and will grow on most types of soil, as long as there is no water-logging. Because they grow slowly over a longer period of time, and have to face winter conditions, the one thing you want to avoid is lush, rapid and therefore vulnerable growth. If plenty of mulch has been dug in, there is no need for additional fertilizers, prior to planting out winter cauliflowers. An occasional Miracle Grow will do wonders for them.  They need a sheltered, rather than exposed site, and one with some protection from north and east winds. They do better in sun rather than in the shade. Protection against Frost should be taken, by covering them.  Care of Cauliflower The secret of success with summer cauliflowers is rapid and continuous growth. From transplanting time onwards they need copious watering, if checked at any time, they are liable to form very small heads. Even though the soil may have been very rich as a result of its preparation, it can do with even more feeding. Mulch the soil around the plants with rotted manure or garden compost three weeks after planting, drenching it with water afterwards. When the Heads have started to form, give the plants a top dressing of nitrate of soda.  Winter cauliflowers have the hazard of too much water to contend with in the winter, as well as too little in the summer. Earth up the soil in early to mid-autumn to form a continuous low ridge. This ensure that the excess water drains away from the stem. It also helps to strengthen the plants against the winter winds. It is not necessary to feed winter cauliflower during the early part of their life, in summer or autumn. Harvesting and Aftercare of Cauliflower A cauliflower is ready for cutting when the upper surface of the Head is fully exposed and the inner leaves no longer cover it. Unfortunately, cauliflowers tend to mature all at once. If the weather is warm and you leave the cauliflowers in the ground once they have matured, the heads expand and they become discoloured and less appealing.  To avoid this lift some early, they will be quite edible. Alternatively, gather up the leaves and tie them together over the Head so that they cover it, using garden twine, an elastic band or raffia. It will also protect the winter ones from the frost if the Heads have grown during that time. To keep them for two or three weeks once they are mature, lift the whole plant, including roots and hang them upside down in a cool shed and syringe them daily. Cauliflowers freeze well and you can deal with an over abundant crop by freezing the surplus for later use.  When harvesting, cut in the early morning when the plant is freshest, ideally with dew on it. During frosty weather however, it is better to wait till the warmest part of the day. Cut through the stalk with a sharp knife, leaving enough leaves around the Head to protect it. Unlike some brassicas, the cauliflower will not produce worthwhile shoots after its head has been cut, so clear the remains of the crop as quickly as possible. Pests and Diseases of Cauliflower Club Root           The first signs of infection are  wilting. blueish leaves and a dying plant. Cabbage  Root fly Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are black and rotten. Cabbage Gall Weevil Stunted growth, and mis-shapen roots Wirestem   Rotting stems on seedlings Downy  Mildew Light grey powdery patches on the leaves and shoots, normally appearing in spring. The mildew will get right into the plant, eventually killing it. Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix         Back to the Home Page 4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html

How to Grow Broccoli   How to Grow Broccoli The word broccoli means 'little sprouts' in Italian. It is part of the Cabbage family of vegetables which also includes cauliflower, cabbages, Brussels sprouts, turnips and many of the Asian greens.   The words 'broccoli' and 'calabrese' are different varieties of the same vegetable. In general terms, Calabrese produces green heads whereas broccoli produces purple or white heads. How to Grow Broccoli - Which Variety First decide if you want to grow broccoli (smaller heads) or calabrese (larger heads). Broccoli matures in spring from sowing made the previous year, whereas calabrese types matures in mid to late summer from sowings made earlier in the same year. Because of the large differences in sowing to harvest times for different types of broccoli, it is extra-important to examine the instructions on the seed packets. That way you won't pick the wrong variety. Broccoli is not too choosy about the site and soil. It prefers to be in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade with no problems.  The ideal soil is a reasonably heavy (not pure clay) which is rich in nutrients and has been well-dug. A light soil can be improved by the addition of nutrients provided by a a general fertilizer and bonemeal. Adding bonemeal to a heavier soil which is not too rich in nutrients will also be of benefit. As with all vegetables avoid low lying areas which may become water-logged. Do not plant broccoli on a site which has been used for brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, turnip, kohlrabi) in the last two years because this will increase the chances of getting club root and cabbage root fly. Broccoli from Seed - How and when and where The time of sowing broccoli with no protection depends on the variety, so read the seed-packet instructions carefully. If planted in the Fall in Arizona on nights where frost danger may be possible, covering them is beneficial. Sow the seed about 7cm (3in) apart in lines which are 60cm (2 foot) apart. Cover the seeds with 1.5cm (half inch) of crumbly soil and water well. The seeds should germinate in 10 days or so. When the seedlings appear, thin them to 22cm (9 in) apart. Broccoli, transplants well and can be grown in a seed bed and transplanted to their final growing position as long as care is taken not to disturb the root system. Using B12 is recommended. Broccoli form Seed - Ongoing Care Calabrese and broccoli are easy to care for. When the seedlings have six or so leaves, give them a shot of Miracle Grow every two weeks. In dry weather, keep them well-watered, especially if the soil is sandy. Watering is especially important when the heads are forming. A layer of garden compost around the plants (not touching them though) will work wonders. Aside from this, and keeping the weeds at bay, they will look after themselves. Where you have no garden compost, be sure and keep the weeds under control. Harvesting and Storing Broccoli For the best broccoli (all types), begin to harvest before the flowers open. Pick both Broccoli and Calabrese regularly to ensure the heads are at their tastiest and to encourage the formation of side-shoots. Broccoli will continue to produce new shoots of smaller heads below where the main head was once the head has been picked. These should be picked before they flower also. With Calabrese, snap or cut off the heads at the top of the stalk. Broccoli should be cut off around half way down the stalk. Both Calabrese and Broccoli freeze particularly well. Blanch the spears for about three minutes in salted water, let them cool out of the water for five minutes and freeze them. The less water on them at the time of freezing, the better. They will store in the fridge for about a week, but they are definitely at their best when harvested and eaten on the same day. Broccoli Pests and Diseases The table below identifies the most common symptoms of broccoli pest and disease, simply click on the pest or disease name for more detailed information on treatment. Disease Symptoms Clubroot Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are a thick distorted mass. Downy Mildew Light grey powdery patches on the leaves and shoots, normally appearing in spring. The mildew will get right into the plant, eventually killing it. Aphids These are greenfly and blackfly which will be clearly visible on the leaves and especially tender young shoots. These seriously weaken the plant. Cabbage Root Fly Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. The roots are black and rotting. Caterpillars These are visible as they much their way through the leaves. The cure is simply to pick them off by hand. Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix         Back to the Home Page 4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html

How to Grow Peas in your Garden !

How to Grow Peas   .    How to Grow Peas Peas Peas are well-suited to cooler temperate c limates. In fact, when temperatures exceed 20C (70F), most varieties of peas will stop producing pods. Peas are part of the legume (Latin Leguminosae) family of vegetables, which extract nitrogen from the air and store it in little nodules along their roots. For this reason, when the plants finish cropping, dig the roots directly into the soil, where they will slowly decompose and release nitrogen for other plants to use. Peas are a prime example of the difference between shop purchased vegetables and those fresh from the garden. Fresh peas win every time, on taste, texture and food value, and that includes frozen peas! If you grow peas year after year, save your seeds from pods that have 7 to 8 peas in the pod. When you fine some that large don't pick them just let them rippen and dry up.  Pick them and save them for the next year in your Frig crisper tray. You will save a lot of money this way and you will get a better crop next year.  Where To Grow Peas Peas will grow on most soils, although they prefer a medium well-dug soil with plenty of organic material. Do not add nitrogen to the soil before planting (or after) - peas extract nitrogen from the air sufficient for the needs. An over-rich soil will cause lots of leafy growth, but a reduced cop of peas. Peas like moisture, so do not plant too near walls or fences. A sunny area is best, although peas are tolerant of partial shade, especially if the shade occurs during the hottest part of the day. Maincrop peas are tall leggy plants (1.8 m / 6 ft), and they can easily be damaged if planted in areas exposed to high wind. Remember that the taller varieties will cast quite a shadow over any other crops nearby. A good plan is to use the space around the pea plants for smaller shade-tolerant plants vegetables -radishes are an excellent choice. When To Sow Peas By sowing a couple of varieties over a month or so, the cropping can be extended from mid-September to Mid April in Arizona.  The table below shows when to sow each type and when they will crop. Specific varieties are recommended later - use the menu on the top left of this page ('pea varieties') if you want to go there now. Type Sow Harvest Sow to Harvest First Early Mid September Mid November 12 weeks Second Early Mid November Mid Jan to Feb 14 weeks Maincrop Mid Jan Mid April to May 15 weeks Prepare the soil in Beginning of September to allow it to settle. Dig to at least a spade's depth (the roots of peas like to grow deeply), incorporating as much organic material as possible. Peat (or peat substitute) is fine because peas 'fix' nitrogen into their roots from the air and have little need for a nitrogen rich soil. Add a handful of bonemeal (two if the soil is poor) per square metre (yard), and incorporate it into the top soil. Peas can be sown outside with no protection in Sept. Remember if planted in pots first to harden off the seedlings prior to planting permanently. Place them outside a few hours a day to begin with. Water them well. For SEEDS Prepare a shallow drill using a trowel, and sow the seed 2.5cm (1in) deep - where more than one row is being sown, the distance apart should equal the eventual height of the plants. Sow the seeds singly at 5cm (2in) intervals - the germination rate is high and over-crowding will affect the health of the plants. One method of increasing the success rate is to soak the pea seeds in water for 4 hours before planting. When planted, water well if the conditions are at all dry. The seedlings should appear in approximately 15 days time. Care of Your Peas The first key need of peas is moisture, and they must be watered throughout their lives when conditions become dry. If the soil has been well-prepared they will have no further need for feeding. A mulch of organic material around the plants will help to keep weeds at bay and preserve moisture. Virtually all pea plants will require support of some kind, consult the seed packet to find out their final height. Most varieties will grow to at least 5 to 6 Feet. The easiest method of support is to place twigs near the plants - the tendrils of the plant will twine around the twigs for support. Thinnings from conifers are ideal - see left diagram. Another method is to erect canes in a row, tying in the plants as they grow - netting (available from most garden centers Loews or HomeDepot) tied to the canes will give extra support. The diagram on the right shows a row of canes secured together with twine at the top. Each plant is grown up its own individual cane and can then spread across the netting. Yet another method, and the best one from our view is to use plastic netting. Plant two rows of peas and when they start to come up, "cage" them with wire netting. The cage is simply supported by four canes at the corners. This method requires no tying in of the plants. And best of all, at the same time as supporting them it protects them from rabbits etc. IMPORTANT: The plants should be pinched out when they reach the top to encourage shoots further down the plants. Where the plants are grown against a fence, plastic netting can be secured to the fence and the tendrils will cling to it pulling the plant up. Garden peas are best when slightly immature - when fully mature they become hard and loose the sweet taste. Harvesting them early also encourages them to produce more. As a guide, peas are normally ready for harvest three weeks after flowering. Peas quickly loose their flavor after harvesting, so pick them just before they are required for cooking. Or Blanc and Freeze them within an hour of picking.  The peas at the bottom of the plant will tend to be ready first, so begin harvesting here, working up as time progresses. When the plant stops producing peas, cut the top of the plant off and leave the roots in the ground to compost for next year. Pest and Disease of Peas Mice will often eat the seeds quicker than you can sow them - if they live in your garden, there is no real cure. Some gardeners coat the seeds in paraffin, others buy a cat! Greenfly and Blackfly - click to the left for more details on how to identify and treat these pests of peas. The other main problems are Pea Moth, Pea Weevil or Pea Thrip. Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix         Back to the Home Page 4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html