How to Grow Onions !                 How to Grow Onions  Onions Easy to grow with a long storage life. Onions are one of the best vegetables for the home gardener. They have the advantage of being a sensible proposition in both the large and small garden, and can be grown in the same position for several years. With a little planning, they can be available for nearly all year round eating.  The introduction of heat treated onion sets (small onion bulbs pre-started into growth before sale) now means that growing onions is almost fool-proof. Where To Grow Onions Onions prefer a a sunny position with a rich but light soil, however they will do well in most soils as long as it is firm. For this reason it is best to prepare the soil in advance of planting. Dig the soil to (12in) deep, working in any organic matter available - remove any stones in the soil that you come across during the digging. Just before planting, tread the soil down so that it is firm. Onions are ideal plants for growing in small confined spaces, they particularly thrive in raised beds. They are also good for keeping pets out of your garden so I suggest putting them on the outside of your garden vegetables. When To Plant Onions Onions should be treated differently according to their type. Each is described below. Maincrop onion seed and sets (small, part grown onion bulbs) should be sown outside starting in October.  Spring (or salad) onion seed should be sown at three week intervals from early Oct. to early Feb in Arizona. Plant and Sow Onion Seed and Sets  Caring for Onions Check that the onions are receiving a regular supply of rain water - watering may be required in dry periods up until several weeks before they are picked. From then on, do not provide any water, it may delay the maturing process. Weeding will also be necessary, because onion foliage provides no protection against weeds.  How to Harvest Onions Maincrop onions are ready for harvesting a week or two after the foliage starts to turn brown and shrivel up. On a sunny day, ease the onions roots from the soil with a fork and leave the onions to dry in the sun. When dry, remove the foliage at the top and store in a cool, dry and dark place - either in nets or boxes with newspaper to keep the onions separate. Onions with thicker necks should not be put into storage, because they will deteriorate quickly. Maincrop onions will keep for a couple of months or more in ideal conditions, but Japanese onions will only last a month. Spring or Salad onions should be harvested when about (18 inch) high and eaten within a day or so. Onion Pests and Diseases. Onion Fly This looks like a normal fly- It lays its eggs in the Spring on the neck of the onion, and the developing larvae will tunnel into the onion and destroy it. Hoe around the onions regularly to expose the eggs to the sunlight. The time of greatest risk is when you thin the onions-the flies are attracted by the scent. Growing from onion sets removes the need for thinning and the onions are unlikely to be attacked.  Onion Eelworms Eelworms are microscopic worms in the soil which cause the onions to distort and swell in size. There is really no effective chemical cure, and it will be necessary to stop growing onions in the patch of ground for three to four years. Send me your comments. Have you had success growing Onions? Have you saved your Bolted Onion Seeds ? Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix  4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html

How to Grow Lettuce in your Garden !

How to Grow Lettuce !   How to Grow Lettuce  Lettuce - often the beginner gardener's graveyard. Watch the gardening TV programs, read the glossy gardening magazines - it all seems so easy! Sometimes it is, and sometimes it just isn't. Read on to see the information you need to successfully grow lettuce where you live. Many varieties of lettuce are supremely suited to cooler climates - they are a vegetable for cool conditions, and they need lots of rain. They dislike hot conditions. There are four basic types, cos (also called romaine), leaf (also called loose-leaf), crisphead, butterhead and stem (also called asparagus lettuce).   How to Grow Lettuce Position and Soil Type       Lettuce is not fussy about soil type as long as it is able to hold water. Their ideal is a soil which is well-drained and well-dug. Clay soil which has been broken down with lots of peat is excellent. Do not apply fertilizer or nutrient rich compost to the soil, this will cause rot. The key success factor with lettuce is to site them in a poition which avoids the full blast of the sun in the middle of the day. Lettuces bolts if the weather becomes too hot or if there is a shortage of water.   Some varieties of lettuce are more resistant to bolting than others. The varieties Fatima and Dolly (butterhead lettuce) are both slow to bolt.   How to Grow Lettuce - Inter-cropping Because lettuce prefers cool conditions (great for Arizona Winters) they are ideal vegetables for inter-cropping. That is growing them near to other vegetables which crop at a different time, normally later. Plant lettuce where runner beans, broad beans, peas, brussels sprouts broccoli or sweet corn will provide them with shade in the hottest part of the day. If you do grow lettuce near taller vegetables, take care that they are not deprived of water. Lettuce need lots of water to mature quickly and larger crops may take the lion's share of moisture. If this is the case, water the lettuce well in dry conditions. How To Sow Lettuce Sow every three weeks to ensure a continuous supply rather than a glut at one time - lettuces do not keep well in the ground when they have reached maturity. Use a trowel to dig out shallow drills (half inch) deep, each drill being (1ft) apart from the next. Sow three or four seeds every (6in). The seeds can be sown in a continuous row, although this will require more seeds and more thinning out later. Cover the seeds with soil, firming it down with gentle pressure. If the soil is at all dry, water well. The seedlings should begin to appear in 7 to 14 days time. Gradually thin out the seedlings until they are (10in) apart. The sowing process is the same for all lettuce at all times of the year. Where sowing in autumn for spring harvest.   Caring for lettuce  The key requirements are water and weeding. Both can be greatly assisted by laying a covering of organic material (or black plastic cut to allow the seedlings through) around the plants, this will keep the soil moist and stop the growth of weeds. It will also provide a slow but steady stream of nutrients.   Harvesting Lettuces Harvest lettuces as soon as they mature, they will quickly bolt if left in the ground too long. When the heart of the lettuce begins to form a point and grow upwards, it is beginning to bolt and should be picked immediately. The easiest way to harvest them is to pull them out with the roots using a trowel and trim with a sharp knife. With 'picking' lettuces, leave them in the ground, cutting the outer leaves away from the plant near the base - new shoots will soon grow to replace the harvested ones.    Pests and Diseases of Lettuce  Lettuces have a few enemies which may not kill the crop, but they will slow down growth and make the plants less healthy. The pests are, lettuce root aphid (yellowing and decaying roots), lettuce root maggot (maggots present on the roots), greenfly and slugs. All of these can be treated using chemicals from your local garden centre. However, a few basic precautions should prevent them in the first place. 1.Weed the bed - weeds provide a home for pests and diseases. 2. Remove harvested lettuces from the ground completely, do not leave the stump in the ground. It will rot and attract the attention of pests, root aphid in particular 3. Provide them with sufficient water especially in dry periods. 4. Do not grow lettuce in the same beds as has been previously used for chrysanthemums. Doing so will increase the risk of root maggot. Send me your comments. Have you had success growning Lettuce? Have you saved your Lettuce seeds? Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix         Back to the Home Page 4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html

Growing Cabbage in Your Garden !

How to Grow Cabbage !   How to Grow Cabbage Cabbages are extremely hardy members of the brassica family, which thrive in cold damp winters and are capable of withstanding temperatures which would destroy many other crops. The somewhat unglamorous reputation gained by cabbage has changed over the last few years, newer varieties have been introduced which are milder tasting than the old much stronger flavored types.  These varieties have also been bred to be more disease resistant. Because the cabbage is suitable to most temperate climates and soils and require minimal attention, they are one of the easiest crops to grow. Growing Cabbage---Soil and site for Cabbage. The ideal site for cabbages is any well drained ground, but they prefer a medium to light soil which will retain a reasonable amount of water. Prepare the ground with mulch, several months before sowing. If the ground has not been mulched, apply a general fertilizer before sowing. I am in favor of sowing from mid spring until early summer for a longer period of harvesting .  Cabbages grown outdoors should be transplanted when four or five cabbage type leaves have appeared.  Care of Cabbage  Cabbages sown in spring do not require a great deal of care, but do not allow them to dry out as this will impair their growth. Water liberally during hot and dry weather. Hoe around the plants during the growing period to control the weeds and aerate the soil which will also deter insect pests from laying their eggs. A layer of garden compost around (but not touching) the plants will conserve water, prevent weeds and  deter those pesky insects!   Cabbages are greedy feeders and require plenty of fertilizer during the growing period. Spraying with Miracle Grow every 2 weeks will    greatly enhance their growth. As the plants mature, some of the leaves may turn yellow. Break off these discoloured leaves as soon as they appear. . Harvesting and Storing Cabbage Cabbages are ready for harvesting when the hearts are firm. Lift the entire plant with a fork and cut the roots off at a later stage, or, cut the stem just above the base of the lower leaves, and discard the outer leaves which are too coarse for eating. Mature cabbages with a good firm heart, and in good condition, can be stored in a cool, airy frost proof shed for several weeks. Place the cabbages on a rack made of wood or chicken wire, do not stack them on the ground. Once the cabbages have been cut and stored, the crop has now finished and the ground can be cleared. Pests and Diseases of Cabbage cabbage root fly   Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are black and rotten. Club root The first signs of infection are wilting. blueish leaves and a dying plant. Cabbage Caterpillars Holes in  the leaves Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook             Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix         Back to the Home Page 4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html

How to Grow Cauliflower

How to Grow Cauliflower   How to Grow Cauliflower Technically, there are two sorts of cauliflowers, summer and winter. The former is a proper cauliflower ,while the latter variety is a type of broccoli. The names 'summer' and 'winter' are a bit misleading. Some summer cauliflowers are sown in winter under glass, for harvesting in late spring or early summer. Maincrop varieties of summer cauliflower are sown outdoors in spring for harvesting in summer and autumn. Soil and Site for Cauliflower All cauliflowers need a neutral or slightly alkaline soil to do well. If the soil is too acidic, the plants will be unable to obtain all the trace elements they need, and may develop whiptail. On the other hand, soils which are too limey or chalky can lead to stunted and discoloured cauliflower. As with all brassicas, avoid using a plot on which a brassica crop was grown within the past two years. Cauliflowers will definitely suffer if they are grown on the same plot for two or more years in a row. Winter Cauliflower Winter cauliflowers are much more tolerant of soil conditions, and will grow on most types of soil, as long as there is no water-logging. Because they grow slowly over a longer period of time, and have to face winter conditions, the one thing you want to avoid is lush, rapid and therefore vulnerable growth. If plenty of mulch has been dug in, there is no need for additional fertilizers, prior to planting out winter cauliflowers. An occasional Miracle Grow will do wonders for them.  They need a sheltered, rather than exposed site, and one with some protection from north and east winds. They do better in sun rather than in the shade. Protection against Frost should be taken, by covering them.  Care of Cauliflower The secret of success with summer cauliflowers is rapid and continuous growth. From transplanting time onwards they need copious watering, if checked at any time, they are liable to form very small heads. Even though the soil may have been very rich as a result of its preparation, it can do with even more feeding. Mulch the soil around the plants with rotted manure or garden compost three weeks after planting, drenching it with water afterwards. When the Heads have started to form, give the plants a top dressing of nitrate of soda.  Winter cauliflowers have the hazard of too much water to contend with in the winter, as well as too little in the summer. Earth up the soil in early to mid-autumn to form a continuous low ridge. This ensure that the excess water drains away from the stem. It also helps to strengthen the plants against the winter winds. It is not necessary to feed winter cauliflower during the early part of their life, in summer or autumn. Harvesting and Aftercare of Cauliflower A cauliflower is ready for cutting when the upper surface of the Head is fully exposed and the inner leaves no longer cover it. Unfortunately, cauliflowers tend to mature all at once. If the weather is warm and you leave the cauliflowers in the ground once they have matured, the heads expand and they become discoloured and less appealing.  To avoid this lift some early, they will be quite edible. Alternatively, gather up the leaves and tie them together over the Head so that they cover it, using garden twine, an elastic band or raffia. It will also protect the winter ones from the frost if the Heads have grown during that time. To keep them for two or three weeks once they are mature, lift the whole plant, including roots and hang them upside down in a cool shed and syringe them daily. Cauliflowers freeze well and you can deal with an over abundant crop by freezing the surplus for later use.  When harvesting, cut in the early morning when the plant is freshest, ideally with dew on it. During frosty weather however, it is better to wait till the warmest part of the day. Cut through the stalk with a sharp knife, leaving enough leaves around the Head to protect it. Unlike some brassicas, the cauliflower will not produce worthwhile shoots after its head has been cut, so clear the remains of the crop as quickly as possible. Pests and Diseases of Cauliflower Club Root           The first signs of infection are  wilting. blueish leaves and a dying plant. Cabbage  Root fly Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are black and rotten. Cabbage Gall Weevil Stunted growth, and mis-shapen roots Wirestem   Rotting stems on seedlings Downy  Mildew Light grey powdery patches on the leaves and shoots, normally appearing in spring. The mildew will get right into the plant, eventually killing it. Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix         Back to the Home Page 4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html

How to Grow Broccoli   How to Grow Broccoli The word broccoli means 'little sprouts' in Italian. It is part of the Cabbage family of vegetables which also includes cauliflower, cabbages, Brussels sprouts, turnips and many of the Asian greens.   The words 'broccoli' and 'calabrese' are different varieties of the same vegetable. In general terms, Calabrese produces green heads whereas broccoli produces purple or white heads. How to Grow Broccoli - Which Variety First decide if you want to grow broccoli (smaller heads) or calabrese (larger heads). Broccoli matures in spring from sowing made the previous year, whereas calabrese types matures in mid to late summer from sowings made earlier in the same year. Because of the large differences in sowing to harvest times for different types of broccoli, it is extra-important to examine the instructions on the seed packets. That way you won't pick the wrong variety. Broccoli is not too choosy about the site and soil. It prefers to be in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade with no problems.  The ideal soil is a reasonably heavy (not pure clay) which is rich in nutrients and has been well-dug. A light soil can be improved by the addition of nutrients provided by a a general fertilizer and bonemeal. Adding bonemeal to a heavier soil which is not too rich in nutrients will also be of benefit. As with all vegetables avoid low lying areas which may become water-logged. Do not plant broccoli on a site which has been used for brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, turnip, kohlrabi) in the last two years because this will increase the chances of getting club root and cabbage root fly. Broccoli from Seed - How and when and where The time of sowing broccoli with no protection depends on the variety, so read the seed-packet instructions carefully. If planted in the Fall in Arizona on nights where frost danger may be possible, covering them is beneficial. Sow the seed about 7cm (3in) apart in lines which are 60cm (2 foot) apart. Cover the seeds with 1.5cm (half inch) of crumbly soil and water well. The seeds should germinate in 10 days or so. When the seedlings appear, thin them to 22cm (9 in) apart. Broccoli, transplants well and can be grown in a seed bed and transplanted to their final growing position as long as care is taken not to disturb the root system. Using B12 is recommended. Broccoli form Seed - Ongoing Care Calabrese and broccoli are easy to care for. When the seedlings have six or so leaves, give them a shot of Miracle Grow every two weeks. In dry weather, keep them well-watered, especially if the soil is sandy. Watering is especially important when the heads are forming. A layer of garden compost around the plants (not touching them though) will work wonders. Aside from this, and keeping the weeds at bay, they will look after themselves. Where you have no garden compost, be sure and keep the weeds under control. Harvesting and Storing Broccoli For the best broccoli (all types), begin to harvest before the flowers open. Pick both Broccoli and Calabrese regularly to ensure the heads are at their tastiest and to encourage the formation of side-shoots. Broccoli will continue to produce new shoots of smaller heads below where the main head was once the head has been picked. These should be picked before they flower also. With Calabrese, snap or cut off the heads at the top of the stalk. Broccoli should be cut off around half way down the stalk. Both Calabrese and Broccoli freeze particularly well. Blanch the spears for about three minutes in salted water, let them cool out of the water for five minutes and freeze them. The less water on them at the time of freezing, the better. They will store in the fridge for about a week, but they are definitely at their best when harvested and eaten on the same day. Broccoli Pests and Diseases The table below identifies the most common symptoms of broccoli pest and disease, simply click on the pest or disease name for more detailed information on treatment. Disease Symptoms Clubroot Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are a thick distorted mass. Downy Mildew Light grey powdery patches on the leaves and shoots, normally appearing in spring. The mildew will get right into the plant, eventually killing it. Aphids These are greenfly and blackfly which will be clearly visible on the leaves and especially tender young shoots. These seriously weaken the plant. Cabbage Root Fly Stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. The roots are black and rotting. Caterpillars These are visible as they much their way through the leaves. The cure is simply to pick them off by hand. Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix Here is some Free Gardening Gifts for You ! Follow Us on Twitter                     Follow Us on Facebook Follow us on Linkedin       Follow us on IBOToolBox Below    Happy Gardening Roland in Phoenix         Back to the Home Page 4176 West Hearn Rd, , Phoenix, Az, USA tel: 602-89-8342 | email: Rolandd@cox.net | website: http://www.gogreeninarizona.org/Gardening.html