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How to Grow Cauliflower
Technically,
there are two sorts of cauliflowers, summer
and winter. The former is a proper cauliflower ,while the latter
variety is a type of broccoli. The names 'summer' and 'winter' are a bit misleading.
Some
summer cauliflowers are sown in winter under glass, for harvesting in
late
spring or early summer. Maincrop varieties of summer cauliflower are
sown outdoors in spring for harvesting in summer and autumn.
Soil and
Site for Cauliflower
All
cauliflowers need a neutral or slightly alkaline soil to
do
well. If the soil is too acidic, the plants will be unable to obtain
all the
trace elements they need, and may develop whiptail. On the other hand,
soils
which are too limey or chalky can lead to stunted and discoloured
cauliflower.
As with
all brassicas, avoid using a plot on which a brassica crop
was grown
within the past two years. Cauliflowers will definitely suffer if they
are
grown on the same plot for two or more years in a row.
Winter
Cauliflower
Winter
cauliflowers are much more tolerant of soil
conditions, and
will grow on most types of soil, as long as there is no water-logging.
Because
they grow slowly over a longer period of time, and have to face winter
conditions, the one thing you want to avoid is lush, rapid and
therefore
vulnerable growth.
If plenty of mulch has been dug in, there is no need
for
additional fertilizers, prior to planting out winter cauliflowers. An
occasional Miracle Grow will do wonders for them.
They
need a sheltered, rather than
exposed site, and one with some protection from north and east winds.
They do
better in sun rather than in the shade. Protection against Frost should
be
taken, by covering them.
Care of
Cauliflower
The
secret of success with summer cauliflowers is rapid and
continuous growth. From transplanting time onwards they need copious
watering,
if checked at any time, they are liable to form very small heads. Even
though
the soil may have been very rich as a result of its preparation, it can
do with
even more feeding.
Mulch
the soil around the plants with rotted manure or garden
compost three
weeks after planting, drenching it with water afterwards. When the
Heads have
started to form, give the plants a top dressing of nitrate of soda.
Winter
cauliflowers have the hazard
of too much water to contend with in the winter, as well as too little
in the
summer. Earth up the soil in early to mid-autumn to form a continuous
low
ridge.
This ensure that the excess water drains away from the stem. It
also helps
to strengthen the plants against the winter winds. It is not necessary
to feed
winter cauliflower during the early part of their life, in summer or
autumn.
Harvesting
and Aftercare of
Cauliflower
A
cauliflower is ready for cutting when the upper surface of the
Head is fully exposed and the inner leaves no longer cover it.
Unfortunately,
cauliflowers tend to mature all at once. If the weather is warm and you
leave
the cauliflowers in the ground once they have matured, the heads expand
and
they become discoloured and less appealing.
To
avoid this lift some
early, they will be quite edible. Alternatively, gather up the leaves
and tie
them together over the Head so that they cover it, using garden twine,
an
elastic band or raffia. It will also protect the winter ones from the
frost if
the Heads have grown during that time.
To
keep them for two or three weeks once they are mature, lift
the whole plant, including roots and hang them upside down in a cool
shed and
syringe them daily. Cauliflowers freeze well and you can deal with an
over
abundant crop by freezing the surplus for later use.
When
harvesting, cut in
the early morning when the plant is freshest, ideally with dew on it.
During
frosty weather however, it is better to wait till the warmest part of
the day.
Cut through the stalk with a sharp knife, leaving enough leaves around
the Head
to protect it.
Unlike
some brassicas, the cauliflower will not produce
worthwhile shoots after its head has been cut, so clear the remains of
the crop
as quickly as possible.
Pests
and Diseases of Cauliflower
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The
first signs of infection are
wilting. blueish leaves and a dying plant.
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Stunted growth especially
if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots
are black and rotten.
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Cabbage Gall Weevil
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Stunted growth, and
mis-shapen roots
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Rotting stems
on seedlings
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Light grey powdery patches
on the leaves and shoots, normally appearing in spring.
The mildew will get right into the
plant, eventually killing it.
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