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How to
Grow Peas
Peas Peas
are
well-suited to cooler temperate
c
limates.
In fact, when temperatures exceed 20C (70F), most varieties of peas
will stop
producing pods.
Peas
are part of the
legume (Latin Leguminosae) family of vegetables, which extract nitrogen
from
the air and store it in little nodules along their roots. For this
reason, when
the plants finish cropping, dig the roots directly into the soil, where
they
will slowly decompose and release nitrogen for other plants to use.
Peas
are a prime example of the difference between shop
purchased vegetables and those fresh from the garden. Fresh peas win
every
time, on taste, texture and food value, and that includes frozen peas!
If you grow peas year after year, save your seeds from pods that have 7 to 8 peas in the pod. When you fine some that large don't pick them just let them rippen and dry up. Pick them and save them for the next year in your Frig crisper tray. You will save a lot of money this way and you will get a better crop next year.
Where
To Grow Peas
  Peas
will grow on most soils, although they prefer a medium well-dug soil
with
plenty of organic material. Do not add nitrogen to the soil before
planting (or
after) - peas extract nitrogen from the air sufficient for the needs.
An
over-rich soil will cause lots of leafy growth, but a reduced cop of
peas. Peas
like moisture, so do not plant too near walls or fences.
A
sunny area is best, although peas are tolerant of partial
shade, especially if the shade occurs during the hottest part of the
day.
Maincrop peas are tall leggy plants (1.8 m / 6 ft), and they can easily
be
damaged if planted in areas exposed to high wind.
Remember that the
taller
varieties will cast quite a shadow over any other crops nearby. A good
plan is
to use the space around the pea plants for smaller shade-tolerant
plants
vegetables -radishes are an
excellent choice.
When
To Sow Peas
By sowing a couple of varieties over a month or so, the cropping can be
extended from mid-September to Mid April in Arizona. The table below shows
when to sow each type and when they will crop. Specific varieties are
recommended later - use the menu on the top left of this page ('pea
varieties')
if you want to go there now.

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Sow
|
Harvest
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Sow
to Harvest
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First
Early
|
Mid
September
|
Mid
November
|
12
weeks
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Second
Early
|
Mid
November
|
Mid
Jan to Feb
|
14
weeks
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Maincrop
|
Mid
Jan
|
Mid
April to May
|
15
weeks
|
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Prepare
the soil in Beginning of September to allow it to settle. Dig to at
least a spade's depth (the roots of peas like to grow deeply), incorporating as much organic material as possible. Peat (or peat
substitute) is fine because peas 'fix' nitrogen into their roots from
the air and have little need for a nitrogen rich soil.
Add a handful of
bonemeal (two if the soil is poor) per square metre (yard), and incorporate
it into the top soil.
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Peas
can be sown outside with no protection in Sept. Remember if planted in
pots
first to harden off the seedlings prior to planting permanently. Place
them
outside a few hours a day to begin with. Water them well.
For SEEDS
Prepare
a shallow drill using a trowel, and sow the seed 2.5cm (1in) deep -
where more than one row is being sown, the distance apart should equal the eventual height of the plants. Sow the seeds singly at
5cm (2in) intervals - the germination rate is high and over-crowding will affect the health of the plants.
One method of
increasing the success rate is to soak the pea seeds in water for 4
hours before planting. When planted, water well if the conditions are
at all dry. The seedlings should appear in approximately 15 days time.
Care
of Your Peas
The
first key need of peas is moisture, and they must be watered throughout
their lives when conditions become dry. If the soil has been well-prepared they will have no further need for feeding. A mulch
of organic material around the plants will help to keep weeds at bay and preserve moisture.
  Virtually
all pea plants will require support of some kind, consult the seed
packet to find out their final height. Most varieties will grow to at least 5 to 6 Feet. The easiest method of
support is to place twigs near the plants - the tendrils of the plant will twine around the twigs for support. Thinnings from conifers are
ideal - see left diagram.
  Another
method is to erect canes in a row, tying in the plants as they grow -
netting (available from most garden centers Loews or HomeDepot) tied to the canes will
give extra support. The diagram on the right shows a row of canes secured together with twine at the top.
Each plant is grown up
its own individual cane and can then spread across the netting.
Yet
another method, and the best one from our view is to use plastic
netting. Plant two rows of peas and when they start to come up, "cage" them with wire netting.
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The
cage is simply supported by four canes at the corners. This method
requires no tying in of the plants. And
best of all, at the same time as supporting them it protects them from
rabbits etc.
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IMPORTANT:
The plants should be pinched
out when they reach the top
to encourage shoots further down the
plants. Where the plants are grown against a fence, plastic netting can be secured to the fence
and the tendrils will cling to it pulling the plant up. Garden peas
are best when slightly immature - when fully mature they become hard
and loose the sweet taste.
Harvesting
them early also encourages them to produce more. As a guide, peas are
normally ready for harvest three weeks after flowering. Peas quickly loose their flavor after harvesting, so pick
them just before they are required for cooking.
Or
Blanc and Freeze them within an hour of picking.
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The
peas at the bottom of the plant will tend to be ready first,
so begin harvesting here, working up as time progresses. When the plant
stops
producing peas, cut the top of the plant off and leave the roots in the
ground
to compost for next year.
Pest and Disease of Peas
Mice will often eat the seeds quicker than you can sow them - if they
live in
your garden, there is no real cure. Some gardeners coat the seeds in
paraffin,
others buy a cat!
Greenfly
and Blackfly
- click to the left for more details on how to
identify
and treat these pests of peas.
The
other main problems are Pea Moth, Pea Weevil or Pea Thrip.
Happy
Gardening
Roland
in Phoenix
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